Dear Grisso:
Nice website. . I am sending you
some of my stories about Carnaval in Rio and Bahi, Brazil to share
with your friends who you love Carnaval.
Steve Baiano / Promoter San Diego
Brazil Carnaval
619.723.3570
BAHIA PAGE from my website:
SAVE THE
DATE
HISTORY:
I was born and raised in San Diego. My uncle San Diego High
School Football legend, Charles Davis, married into the Ramsey
Family that owned the Creole Palace back in the day. It was the
premiere Black Club in San Diego from the 30's to the 50's featuring
the likes of Duke Ellington, Count Basie, Herb Jeffries, Nicholas
Brothers, Dorothy Dandridge.
As a result of my first trip to
Brazil in 1987, I started Brazilian Promotions to promote
Brazilian Events and cultural activities. Over the
years Brazilian Promotions has evolved and we now
promote and produce variety of musical genres: Latin, African, Reggae,
WorldBeat, Blues, Jazz, Hip Hop, Flamenco, Cajun, Zydeco, Carnaval and
Mardi Gras Events. Our goal is to build a cultural bridge through
music and dance to bring people together and celebrate
life. For updates here www.brazilcarnival.com
Since 1993, Brazilian Promotions has produced the San Diego Brazil
Carnaval. In additon to Carnaval, my partner Christine Portella "Carioca
de Gema" and I have produced and promoted shows with such
Brazilian artists as Jorge Benjor, Gilberto Gil, Djambi, Marisa
Monte, Daniela Mercury, Ivan Lins, Leila Pineiro, Ed Motta, Marcelo D2,
O Rappa, Planet Hemp, Tribo de Jah, OLODUM, Moraes Moreira and Renni
Flores from OBA OBA. As an Entertainment Coordinator our
clients include:
* San Diego Street Scene
* The Boulé Convention
* Super Bowl 1998
* Blue Sky Productions
* Calle Diez Latin Music Festival
* American Cancer Society
* California Center for the Arts Escondido
* East County Performing Arts Center El Cajon
* Fashion Careers of California (Golden Hangers)
* San Diego Children's Museum
* Athletes for Education
* Café Sevilla
* 4th & B
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My years on this planet have been a journey in search of
self. I have been on a quest to embrace the cultures,
history and people of the African Diaspora. My travels have
taken me to Kenya, Brazil, Zanzibar, Martinique, Mexico, Puerto Rico,
Haiti, St. Lucia and Dominca...Below is my diary based on my
observations and experiences when I went to Brazil for the 1st time...I
hope you enjoy. It was published last year in BRAZZIL Magazine
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Salvador, Bahia, Brazil...1987
I have often been asked how I got interesed in Brazil. It
started when saw "Black Orpheus", the
1959 Oscar winning film. I was enthralled by the story, music,
and colors, of this film classic. Nine years later, I was in
Brazil. I am going to share with you notes from my diary when I
first went to Bahia, Brazil in 1987. I visited the Magical
city of Salvador, Bahia aka "Roma Negra" / Black Rome.
After reading this, you may understand how that first experience had
such an impact on me. Get yourself a nice cup of cafezinha, relax
and enjoy...
In 1986, I befriended a Baiano (A person from Bahia, Brazil) name
Geraldo. He was one of the first Afro-Brazilian I met. He was
without a place to stay, so I offered him my house and also taught him
English. We became great friends. A year later he arranged
for me to stay with his family in Bahia, Brazil. The following is a
daily journal that I kept of my day to day experiences....
February 16, 1987...Mulattos, Morenas e Cabo Verdes
8:00 a.m. Arrive in Salvador...Looking out the windows, the
scenery reminds me of Martinique, many palm trees laden with coconuts.
It's an awareness that I'm experiencing now, coming from San Diego
where it feels like me Geraldo and the Navy are the only Blacks living
in Point Loma section of San Diego. In Salvador, that the
majority of the people in the city have Africa in them.
While eating dinner with his family, I was discussing the movie "the
Brother from another Planet" I was sharing with them Geraldo's
experience in San Diego and describing him as the "Brother from another
Country" In talking to them in Portuguese, I made use
of the word Preto to refer to us Blacks. I could sense from their
reaction, that was not a word that they use to describe themselves.
They were Mulattos, Morenos, Cabo Verdes. In Brazil, the concept
of race is not as rigid as in the U.S. In the U.S., if you have
any African Heritage, you are considered Black, regardless of skin
color, or hair texture. In Brazil, the concept of race is much
more fluid. Black people come in all shapes, sizes, and
colors. I see so many more faces here than I have seen back in
the States
I found out that Brazil like the United States has many different terms
to describe people of African heritage based on their skin color, hair
texture, and facial appearance. The only difference is that
in the U.S. despite, the terms, the individual is still considered
Black. In the U.S. they use terms like Redbone, high yellow,
rimey, etc. In Brazil, some of these are...Sarara: fair skinned
blond hair; Mulatto: mixture of African and Caucasian; Pardo: A mixture
more African than Caucasian; Cabo Verde: dark skin with straight black
hair and Preto/Black : F.O.B. "Fresh off the boat" without any Indian
or Caucasian bloodline. The African Diaspora is a beautiful quilt
that stretches all around the world. Hinton and Elsa, Geraldo's Aunt
and Uncle have treated me just like a long lost relative
The people I've met are wonderful. Yesterday, Rose Angela, Geraldo's
Sister & Indaia, Geraldo's Cousin, took me to Rio Vermelho to drink
Coco Gelado. I made the mistake of saying Coca Gelado, which is
an entirely different thing, and eat Acaraje, fried Black Eye Pea
fritter cooked in Palm Oil stuffed with peppers, Vatapa and
seasoned shrimp. The Baianas, women from Bahia, sat stooped
over their pots filled with Azeite de Dende (Red Palm Oil) and
meticulously prepared their savory treats, just as they have done for
centuries. Friends of mine from Nigeria say they eat the same
thing. In Nigeria, it is called Acara.
February 17, 1987...Trio Electricos
We went to the beach last night and there were thousands of people
celebrating. In he middle of the celebration was this enormous
multicolored sound truck called a "Trio Electrico." It blasts sound.
Rose Angela, Claudia, and I dance behind this moving wall of sound as
it moved slowly up and down the streets. Imagine a Greyhound bus with a
band on top, fill the inside of the van with generators, amplifiers and
speakers, add lots of lights and you now have a "Trio Electrico."
We met Nelson, Rose Angela's ex-spouse. Also met Indaia's brother and
his family. His daughter said that I have an accent like a Paulista,
someone from Sao Paulo. Salvador is a big city divided into Baixa
(lower) and Alta (upper) Salvador. The roads aren't too bad, but the
people drive like Haitian Cab drivers. In size and population, it is
comparable to San Diego, about 2 million people and very spread out.
The biggest difference that I notice is that majority of the population
is of African descent, 80% to 90%. The people came from the same West
African gene pool that African-Americans are descended from. They are a
major part of the African Diaspora. Being in Salvador has awakened
something inside me. It is like a key has opened the box, coming home
and reconnecting to culture and a people. I've seen naturals,
dreadlocks, short hair, straight hair, curly hair, wavy hair, but no
Jheri curls. Baianos have a pride in themselves and own natural beauty
of which there is an abundance the likes of which I have never seen
before.
February 18, 1987...Bonfim and Itaporica
Great day, went to the magnificent church do Senhor Bonfim. Inside the
a section of the church were hanging hundreds of waxen limbs, heads,
torsos, and breasts. I learned that they were left there as a
token of thanks for the many who have been cured of their illnesses. We
went to Eurico's house for breakfast and took the 45 minute ferry boat
ride with Indaia and Rose Angela to Itaporica. Itaporica is a large
scenic island in the middle of the "Bay of All Saints." It is a
rustic and tranquil place that time has forgot...barefoot kids running,
fishing, having fun.
I got sick while I was there...diarrhea, and was on the toilet for what
seemed like an eternity. On the way back from the island, I laid down
in the back of the car, dreading the ferry boat ride back to the city
in my condition. The ride back temporally calmed me down. I rested my
head in Rose Angela's lap as Indaia drove. I kept them laughing with my
impressions of James Brown, Tarzan, and a Macaw. They think I am a
little Maluca (Crazy).
As Indaia drove back to the house, weaving in and out of traffic, I
felt my estomica churn like an osterizer blender. My salivary glands
were acting up...Muito Problemas. As the car entered the underground
driveway, I could sense an impending disaster of magnanimous
proportions. I gotta get to the bathroom ASAP. As soon as I opened the
door, I felt the sweet nauseating taste that signals the start of
regurgitation. I rushed outside, and began convulsing uncontrollably as
the food from the last three days discovered a new way to exit itself
from my body. Wheeww, what a horrible feeling of relief....The nausea
was gone, but I still feel like crap. Anyway, went upstairs, and
showered...No more Acaraje.
I am feeling a little frustrated. I have spoken virtually Portuguese
for the last three days. I know in the long run that it is best for me,
but I would like to hear a little, "Hey Brother, whaz up?" every now
and than. Indaia knows how to speak English, but will only use it in an
emergency.
February 19, 1987...Shopping / People / Observations
It's 10 a.m. and I am still in bed. That is the nice thing about being
on vacation...Good to be able to stay in bed if you choose and not have
to be ruled by time...Go where you wanna, when you wanna, or not go
anywhere at all. We went to Iguatami shopping center, the equivalent of
Horton Plaza in San Diego. Many shops, great clothing, but not a lot of
clothes for a guy like me. I am a tad taller and broader than the
average Baiano.
As I get out each day, I am getting more of a feel for the city and
it's people. I have seen the equivalent of slums, that I have seen in
Tijuana. I have also seen some very nice areas around Barra, Rio
Vermelho, Pituba, and Ondina. I have never seen so many attractive and
beautiful women in one city in my life. The women have beautiful
smiles, great figures and are very friendly.
Rose Angela and I go to Iguatemi, and get tickets to go see Gal Costa,
one Bahia's best singers. We took the bus to the Mercado Modelo and saw
Capoeira. The participants were all powerful, and graceful athletes.
When they finished they asked for a donation. I met some of the local
artists. One of Artists who I approached said that because of my color,
he would give me a break on the prices. He though I was from Africa. He
said that it was his observation that many European tourists would come
through clutching their bags and never smile. He said that a little
smile goes a long way and is always appreciated.
I purchased a glorious Balangandan that was made out of Brass. Below
the Mercado Modelo, we went to a place that Slaves used as a hiding
place. It was dark and the water was cool. One could feel the haunting,
wailing of the souls who had passed through there. We later went
to visit Katia and Beto. Beto is very nice, but crazy. We jumped in the
car and drove to the beaches of Itapoa. Along the way, we passed
swamps, lakes, and lots of lush vegetation. Itapoa was a very beautiful
beach.
We bought crabs and shrimp to take home for the Gumbo I was cooking
tomorrow. I like to share my culture with other people. It
is a two way mirror. The open air market is not like your local
Von's or Ralph's, but they have things there that you will never find a
Ralph's or Von's. There are fruits like Jacas, Pinas, or Palm
Oil, and dried meats. The sights, sounds, and smells you experience
really put your senses through their paces. The section of Itapoa Beach
we visited was unpaved. The warm emerald and turquoise waters are
breathtaking.
I tried to candidly take photos of some of the women. That wasn't
working too well, so I just went up and said do you mind in I take your
picture. They all obliged. It was a great day for making friends,
eating Churrasco (Brazilian Bar-B-Que), crabs and drinking Brahma
Beer. The day at the Itapoa beach was heavenly....warm and cool
breezes caressed my body....
February 21, 1987....Restaurants & Gal Costa & Ile Aiye
We ate at Baby Chick's Restaurant. For less than $3.00, you get one
Baby Chick (whole chicken), sausage, and a steak. Their Mr. Bigburger
was not too good, it makes me yearn for a Boll Weevil ½ pounder.
The only thing big about Mr. Bigburger was the big bun. "Where's the
beef?" We met Katia & Beto at the Gal Costa Concert, costs $3.00 to
get in. The Convention Center had state of the art lights and sound.
Gal Costa was fantastic. She radiates charm and charisma. It sprinkled
off and on during the concert and we took cover under the bleachers.
After the Gal Concert, we drove to a very old section of the city. It
must have been 2:00 a.m. in the morning. It was still raining, but
there were literally thousands of people in the streets partying to the
rhythms of drums. The air was moist, and bodies were moving back
and forth like an "Onda Negra" Black Wave. We were in the middle of Ile
Aiye. The first Bloco Afro (an Afro-Brazilian Cultural Group). It was
founded in 1974 by Vovo as a protest against discrimination towards
Blacks in Bahia.
In the middle of all this, I experience a feeling that was comparable
to what I felt in Martinique, Haiti, New Orleans, Watts, Dominica. I am
Black, African, Afro-American amongst Brothers and Sisters I have never
met before. But for accident of where the slave ships disembarked, I
could have been born in here and they in San Diego or New Orleans. It's
a feeling of belonging and not having to justify your existence or
defend your rights because of your race.
Reggae Music is very popular in Salvador. Africa is in Salvador, well
so is Jamaica. Dread locks are worn with pride. After visiting Ile
Aiye, we went to Bloco Afro Muzenza. Upon entering the place, I felt
that I was back at Spanky's, a Reggae Club in San Diego....Dreads
everywhere, pictures of Bob Marley, and Jamaican Flags. The beat was
jammin'...Brothers and Sisters was skanking like crazy. One of the
brothers who looked like Bob Marley came over and asked me if I was
from Jamaica. I had a Jamaican flag on my shirt.
I responded no, I was a tourist from San Diego and love Reggae music.
He spoke a little English with a West Indian accent. His name was Lino
de Almeida and was a judge for the dance contest and show. We exchanged
addresses and numbers. He said that if something is really good, the
Black people in Salvador say "Massa Bicho." Later on, we met Aurelio,
ex-boy friend of Rose Angela. He was into the music and culture of
Bloco Afro Muzenza, and was also a Capoerista. Because of his blond
curly hair, light skin, and blue eyes, the average person would assume
he was Caucasian.
Getting back to Aurelio, the boy could get down. His body was able to
move in 4 - 5 different directions simultaneously. He later made a
comment after he had not been given one of the Muzenza brochures, that
it was because he was big, looked white and people assumed he was a
tourist from America. How ironic I thought to myself. I am here and
people assumed I am Baiano and he's Baiano and people assumed he's
American.
As the night went on, we got down with the music generated by the music
25 drummers playing various sizes of the Brazilian sourdo drum. A
sourdo drum is about the size of a garbage can and produces a sound
that is irresistible to dance to. The more intense the beat the
stronger you dance. There is no other beat or kind of music that I have
experienced that affect me that way. It awakens something deep in side
me.
On the stage were seven beautiful Baianas dressed in African Clothing
and adorned in Jewelry, dancing together in unison on elevated
platform. Like a moth to a flame, there I went. The women had their
hips gyrating, arms, waving, feet moving...the music intensified. The
crowd caught up in the frenzy, and I thought to myself, this is not
even Carnaval yet. I wish I could package this experience and share it
with all of my friends.
We left at 5:00 a.m....It was raining Dogs and Cats...empty streets, I
do not recall seeing many homeless although there was a lot of poverty.
I fell asleep as Rose Angela drove home. I was awakened by the
sensation of being on a miniature Rollercoaster ride. Rose Angela had
fallen asleep at the wheel and was trying to regain control of the
vehicle. We were very lucky that we hit nothing. "Praise the Lord" as
my grandmother used to say. What a day in Salvador...Days spent at the
beach and the night at Ile Aiye and Muzenza...Massa Bicho.
February 22, 1987...Filhos de Ghandi / Jerry Springer moment
Tonton, Geraldo's brother is a member of Filhos de Ghandi (an 8,000
member Afoxe group founded in 1949 by Afro-Brazilians dockworkers who
identified with Ghandi's non-violent movement to fight oppression) They
dress in beautiful white robes and turbans during Carnaval. When they
move down the street it is an impressive sight.
On the way to the Filhos de Ghandi rehearsal, we passed the location
where they filmed the movie "Dona Flor and her Two Husbands" It was a
beautiful part of the city with quaint architecture, and houses painted
in soft pastel greens, pinks, and shades of eggshell white.
We drive to the rehearsal hall. It is hidden behind a wall. I can't see
them, but I can feel them. Those drums, those chants....a connection to
Africa that is so strong, so powerful, so intact. A measure of a
people's culture. It is their traditions, oral and written language,
art, music, dance, love of life. No one culture or race is superior we
are all equal, different in some ways but alike in many more ways.
Anyway back to Filhos de Ghandi.
We get out of the car and there are masses of people milling around
trying to get in. Believe me this is a Sell Out and there is not S.R.O.
(Standing Room Only) We go to the gate and Tonton flashes his Filhos de
Ghandi membership card. It is not enough to get us in. We wait...we
hope...the crowd grows in size. I have already mapped out my escape
route. I am prepared to scale a seven foot wall if it gets out of
hand. The door opens...The Crowd surges and like a miniature tidal
wave, Tonton, and his wife Velma get pushed in. But Rose Angela and I
don't. The gate locks. Drums a pounding, Police are called in to keep
order...machine guns displayed...people screaming...it's Chaos...I feel
like I am in a movie....A very surreal experience
Rose Angela and I wait for the next opening. It comes we surge we get
separated and she gets pushed in. I am still on the outside facing
armed police and an angry mob. A women, for lack of a better term cuts
in front of me. I will never forget what she did. Sh leg locks me
so I can't move and uses her body as a barricade to keep me from
getting inside. Not laying a hand on her, I submarined her and made my
way in. She made me made with her rude behavior. I was determined to
get in. What an expereince once we were all inside. Congo drums,
agogos, and the chanting of the Filhos de Ghandi....To be continued
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Steve's 1st Carnaval in Rio
My first Carnaval in Rio has had an enormous impact on my life.
It was 1987, and I had just spent an incredible two weeks in
Bahia. My friends in Salvador could not understand why I was
leaving them to go spend Carnaval in Rio. They all assured me
that their Carnaval was the best Carnaval in Brazil. I arrived in
Rio and was awestruck by the natural beauty of the City. Granite
mountains reaching to the sky and miles of beaches.
Christ the Redeemer on top of Corcovado was a breathtaking site to
behold. Our travel agent booked us at the Luxor Regente in
Copacabana. One of my favorite things to do after the sun went
down was to stroll up and down Avenida Atlantica and look at the arts
and crafts that were on display. After purchasing a few
souvenirs, I would head back to the patio at the Lucas Bar, order a
Brahma Chopp, plate of fries, grilled chicken and watch the street
theater unfold in front of me.
The street Carnaval in Rio was amazing. Organized samba bands and
impromptu celebrations were everywhere. The Cariocas knew how to
celebrate Carnaval. It seemed liked the whole city had come to a
stop to join in the spirit of Carnaval. The freedom to party in
the streets was a new experience for me. At times,
the energy, excitement, music, samba, costumes was overwhelming.
In San Diego they roll the streets up at 2 a.m. In Rio, the party is
just getting started at 2 a.m. Cariocas are some of
the friendliest people on earth. They love their Carnaval and are very
proud to share it.
The "Samba Shrine" known as the Sambodromo was constructed to showcase
the Carnaval Parade in Rio. It is an amazing structure that
can accommodate in excess of 100,000 spectators and 80,000 Carnaval
dancers, musicians, performers a night. I arrived at the
Sambodromo with Carmen from San Francisco and Bill and Elaine from Los
Angeles. We were seated in the Cadeira de Pista section (The
seats costs $300 for this front row seating and were worth the
money). The excitement was in the air. You could feel
it, hear it, touch it and even taste it. The first Samba School was
Unidos do Jacarezinho. It was like watching the opening
act. They were colorful, and a very exuberant group but did not
have the size, costuming, musicianship of what was to come.
I watched group after group compete for the title of #1 Samba School
for 1987. They kept getting better and better. It was
like watching Las Vegas on wheels. Someone once asked what does
Carnaval feel like. The best answer I ever heard was "...You know
that feeling you get at New Year's Eve that last about 15
seconds....Carnaval feels better than that and it last for
days..."
I remained seated throughout the whole time until the arrival of
Salgueiro. Wave after wave of Salgueiro's floats and dancers in
glittering sequined feathered costumes passed our section. In the
distance I heard the pounding of the Sourdos, the "ratta tat tat" of
the Repeniques, and the "ga dagga dack"..."ga dagga dack" of the
ganzas. The sound was getting closer and closer. Before I
knew it the "Bateria" had arrived. Salgueiro's 500 percussionist
sounded like thunder riding a locomotive. I kid you not, their
raw energy and power caused the Sambodromo to shake. I have never heard
anything like it before in my life.
Salgueiro is one of the premier Samba Schools in Rio, along with
Mangueira, Portela, and Mocidade Independente de Padre Miguel.
They electrified the crowd and brought them to their feet when started
singing their Samba Enredo (Theme Song) "Por Que Nao". It became
like a mantra and I found myself singing it along with everyone else
over and over and over. For me, Salgueiro was the
best. They made a believer out of me.
Unfortunately the judges did not see it that way and awarded 1st place
to Mangueira. I liked Mangueira, but it was Salgueiro who
rocked the Sambodromo.
As a result of my experience that night at the Sambodromo, it became my
passion to bring some of that happiness, joy, and celebration of life
to San Diego. In 1993, we promoted our first Carnaval in San
Diego and have worked over the year's to make San Diego's Carnaval the
best Carnaval outside Brazil. Visit our website...Hope to see you
in San Diego one day.... www.brazilcarnival.com
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Back in Brazil
10 years later
On September 1, 1999, I arrived back in San Diego after spending five
and a half weeks in Brazil. It was an incredible trip. I have been to
Brazil six times, but this trip was my first visit to the big "B" since
1994. My last visit was Carnaval in Bahia. I will never forget riding
on top of Olodum's truck with João Jorge, Paulo Gaudenzi, Regina
Casé, and Caetano Veloso. Being away from Brazil for five years
will give anyone a lot of saudades. My twin goddaughters, Karol and
Karine, who live in Rio, are now nine years old.
This trip was a very unique experience. I was hired to work as a
bodyguard for the Masked Magician, known in Brazil as Mr. "M". He had
the highest rated TV show on Fox, when he revealed the secrets of
magic. We arrived in Rio on July 26th. Two hours after we land there is
a press conference with 50 journalists. It was a media circus with
cameras flashing and the press asking him very provocative questions
about his magic show and personal life, things like: are you gay, are
you married?
Later that night we went to the Xuxa Show to promote the Mr. M Brazil
Tour '99. As we arrive at the Globo studios in the stretch limo, I
realize how big this really is. The muvuca (a whole bunch of people)
goes crazy, they start flinging themselves on top of the limo, yelling
screaming, trying to open the car doors, and this is only the second
day. A phalanx of 50 security guards escorts us in and out of the
studio. Mr. M's time on the Xuxa Show was magic. They danced together
and he revealed his face to her on stage. After the press, the fofoca
(gossip) started... What's up with Mr. M and Xuxa? Everyone wanted to
know.
The next day Mr. M took a helicopter ride over the beautiful city of
Rio. Sugarloaf, Maracanã, Corcovado were landmarks he said he
would never forget. For those who have never been there, Rio is one of
the most beautiful cities in the world. After the helicopter ride, we
had a police-escorted motorcade down Ipanema and Copacabana beaches.
The beaches looked as beautiful as ever and were filled with tanned
bodies exercising, jogging, riding bikes, working out on the outdoor
gym, or just laying on the beach.
Our motorcade ended at the Crianças de São Martinho
orphanage, where Mr. M put on a special magic show for the kids. The
faces of the kids lit up when Mr. M took to the stage. They were a
great audience. I was touched when at the end of the show, a girl who
couldn't have been more than 12 years of age asked Mr. M if he could do
a magic trick and make her pregnant belly disappear. He told her that
the gift of life she carried in her belly is the most important gift
there is and that the children are the future of Brazil.
Later that night, we made an appearance at Xuxa's house for her
daughter Sasha's birthday party. It was like going to one of the
kingdoms in Disneyland. The compound even has a McDonald's in the
backyard. She lives far from Copacabana and Ipanema. We drove for at
least 45 minutes until we arrived at her gates. The fans went nuts when
Mr. M exited from the limousine. I was thinking to myself, 'Elvis, the
Beatles, Michael Jackson generate this kind of hysteria and I am in the
middle of it making sure his security is taken care of.'
We took a golf cart ride up a windy road to her house. It was amazing.
The place was rocking with lights, music, dancing, celebrities were
everywhere. When we entered her house to wait for her to meet Mr. M, we
were introduced to Simone (one of my favorite singers). At the party
were Tiazinha, Carla Perez, Ivete Sangalo, Ronaldinho and Valeria
Valenssa (Ms. Globeleza). Despite the vast number of high profile
celebrities, Mr. M was the star of the party. Everyone wanted his
autograph or the opportunity to take a photo with him. Mr. M never said
no to anyone, he was always willing to sign that last autograph, or
take an extra photo. It didn't matter if you were the president of a
company or the maid in the hotel.
While in Rio we stayed at the Intercontinental Hotel in São
Conrado. Within walking distance from the luxurious hotel was the
massive favela (shantytown) known as Rocinha. Over 1 million people
live there. I read that McDonald's is planning to build a restaurant
there. That was one of the biggest changes I noticed in my five years
away from Brazil. McDonald's restaurants are everywhere. I read in a
Brazilian newspaper that after the government, McDonald's is the second
largest employer in Brazil, with a workforce of over 33,000 people.
Our shows in Rio were at the Metropolitan in Barra. It is an enormous
facility, seating over 5,000. Mr. M's nine shows were all sellouts. One
of the things I will always remember about the Metropolitan is the
kindness and the professionalism of its staff. From Pepe who runs it to
Yolanda who did our sewing and ironing. She was a miracle worker. The
whole staff was great.
Being associated with a magic show was a unique experience for me. I
did whatever I could to make the show work, from repairing props, to
offering suggestions on costumes, and lights. I am pleased to say that
some of my ideas were used in the show. The hours were long, sometimes
14 to 16 hours when you include rehearsals, shows and after parties,
but there was never a dull moment.
Cordially, Steve Spencer
http://www.brazilcarnival.com
Voicemail: 619.723.3570
Fast Forward Carnaval 2003: I just got back from Carnaval
in Bahia...here is my story...
Oi Galera! San Diego Brazil Carnaval 2003 was a memorable event.
4th & "B" was filled to the rafters with carnavalescos experiencing
the euhporia of Carnaval. DANDÁRA put on a show for
the ages with her energia Baiana. The stage at 4th & B with
the enourmous image of King Tut as the backdrop became her Trio
Eletrico. She sang, she jumped up and down and slid across the
stage to agita a galera. Her performance along with
SensaSamba, Escola de Samba Sol e Mar, Mindinho e Capoeira San Diego,
Aquarela Samba School and Bloco Ritmo e Luz featured the best of
Brazilian Carnaval to San Diego.
After Carnaval in San Diego, it was off to Bahia to Bahia for
Carnaval. Bahia is a special place for me. It was
where I first experienced Brazil in 1987. I was the guest of home
of Hinton and Elsa dos Santos. Their warm hospitality and
friendship has made me to return to visit 9 time. Bahia is
where I had the opportunity to eat my first Acaraje.
Acaraje are fried Black Eye Pea fritter cooked in Palm Oil
stuffed with peppers, Vatapa and seasoned shrimp. The Baianas,
women from Bahia, sit stooped over their pots filled with Azeite
de Dende (Red Palm Oil) and meticulously prepare these savory treats,
just as they have done for centuries. Friends of mine from Nigeria say
they eat the same thing and it is called Acara.
Carnaval in Bahia is an explosion of music, lights, and,
colors. You feel the power of the Bloco-Afros like
Olodum, Male de Bale and Ilê Aiyê and witness the awesome
spectacle of the 8,000 members of Filhos de Ghandi (the sons of Mahatma
Ghandi) dressed in white robes and turbans is amazing to see. It
is like a huge white wave as. For excitement, there is
nothing to equal the energy of the Trio Eletricos leading groups like
Eva, Crocodilo, Beijo, and Cheiro.
A Trio Eletrico an amazing piece of engineering. Imagine a
vehicle larger than a Greyhound bus with a band on top, fill the inside
of the van with generators, amplifiers and speakers, add lots of lights
and you now have a "Trio Eletrico." From the top of these massive sound
trucks you can see the most exciting artists in Bahia, Ivete Sangalo,
Chiclete com Banana, OLODUM, Carlinhos Brown, Daniela Mercury, Gilberto
Gil and Caetano Veloso. From midnight to dawn, the sounds and Rhythms
of Samba, Frevo, Afoxé, Samba-Reggae, Salsa and Axé Music
permeate the air...Axé Bahia!
I paraded with OLODUM for the first time in 1988. Our parade felt
ike thunder riding a locomotive. Their 500 percussionists and
6,000 members were like nothing I had ever seen before. The
parade started at midnight and when we finished we kissed the
sun. In 1994, I was fortunate enought to get invted to ride
on top of their Carnaval truck with Regina Case and Caetano
Veloso. Man what a view! On recent this trip I met
Kozmo and Peri from Atlanta. I served as their tour guide for
their first Carnaval in Bahia. As we walked
from the Pelourinho to Praca Castro Alves, we walked past
historic buildings painted in soft pastel greens, pinks, and shades of
eggshell white.
Rua Chile is the main artery on the way to Praca Castro Alves where are
the Trios converge before they head back to Campo Grande.
There were thousands of people partying to the rhythms of
drums. The air was moist, and bodies were moving back and forth
like an "Onda Negra" All the sudden we were in the middle
of the "Muvuka" as they had gathered around Bloco OLODUM.
It was like going back into a time warp as OLODUM played their greatest
Carnaval hits: Madagascar OLODUM, Protesto do OLODUM, Berimbau,
Nosse Gente and Tekila. Our Bahian host was the esteemed Billy
Arquimimo, former International Director of OLODUM. Our
frienship goes back to 1988. It was great to see
Billy again and Joao Jorge President of OLODUM. Met this brother
from Atlanta, name Kozmo Miller at the airport. It was his first
trip to Bahia.
Billy and his wife Aldair showed us a fabulous time in
Salvador. Billy took Kozmo and me to Itapoa to meet the
Directors of the Bloco Afro Male de Bale. Male de Bale was
named after the 1835 Male slave rebellion in Bahia. They have the
distinction of being one of the the premier Bloco Afro in Bahia and
have won several awards for their beautiful
choreography. Thanks to Billy we got the opportunity to
meet the President Jocilio and Cicero, two to the Directors of Male de
Bale who took us on a tour of their facility and to this park where we
got the opportunity to see the artists putting the finishing touches on
the Trio Eletricos.
That night we all met in Campo Grande to parade with Male de
Bale. While waiting for the parade to start Billy, Aldair,
Kozmo, Per, Victor Gutierrezand I were chillin' at a bar drinking
Caipirnhas, Brahma and eating Churrasquinhos and Grilled
Cheese. Several of the Bloco Afros began to
congregate: Ilê Aiyê, Dida, and Male de
Bale. As we were waiting for Male to began, I heard this sound
coming from blocks away. We left the bar and headed
for this energia. As we approached, Banda Dida was playing on to
of their Trio. Dida is an all female version of OLODUM.
Their musicians were playing sourdos of various sizes. The band
was rockin' We are planning a Carnaval Tour for
Carnaval in Bahia for 2004. For information and updates check our
website: www.brazilcarnival.com
After leaving Bahia, it was off to Rio. Hoping to stay with
friends, I did not have any hotel reservations. When I arrived I
attempted to contact my friends in Rio, but they had all left to fo to
Buzios and Cabo Frio. Without a place to stay I stopped the
Atlantis Copacabana Hotel. This quaint hotel is
strategically located between Copacabana and Ipanema. Two
blocks from the beach it is where I usually stay when I visit
Rio. Although I had no reservation, I was able to get a room at a
very good right despite the fact it was the during the middle of
Carnaval and all the hotels in Rio were full. The staff at the
hotel rememberd me and went out their way to make my stay a pleasant
one. One of my favorite things to do in Rio is to go the
the Chess Club in front of the Sofitel. It always a
pleasure to be able to sit down and challenge Enor and the rest of
Rio's best chess players.
As the sun went down, I left the Chess Club to stroll up and down
Avenida Atlantica in Copacabana. They have this arts and crafts
bazaar that is a great place to buy those last minute
souvenirs. After shopping I went to Pigalles restaurant for
a Brahma Chopp bem gelada, batata fritas, frango passarinho and watch
the street theater unfold in front of me. One of the
most famous carnaval bands in Rio is the Banda de Ipanema.
The Cariocas know how to celebrate Carnaval. It seemed liked the
whole city had come to a stop to join in the spirit of Carnaval.
The freedom to party in the streets was
everywhere.
Salgueiro paraded Sunday and their theme 50 years of Salgueiro and
tradition made them a early crowd favorite. Mangueira and
Mocidade also rated very high in the court of public opinion. In
the end, the judges voted Beija Flor as the winner of Carnaval
2003...Parabens Beija Flor. On my last day in Rio, I met my
friends and colleagues Christine Portella and David de Alva at
the "Garota da Ipanema" Bar. This Ipanema landmark
has delicious Fried Crab Claws and cold Brahma. . We
spent the afternoon just enjoying the ambiance and good
conversation. Later that evening it was off to Leblon for the
Plataforma Rio Show.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2002 NOVEMBER ZANZIBAR / NAIROBI
Steve Baiano here....I just got back from an
amazing two weeks in Kenya and Zanzibar. It was my third trip to
Kenya, but first time in Zanzibar. Kenya is famous for its
Safaris in Masaai Mara but it also has an amazing Coast line. The
Cities of Malindi and Lamu are the home of the Swahili peoople.
Swahili is the name given to people of mixed Bantu and Omani Arab
origin and it is their culture and language that dominate East African
society. The Swahili range in appearance from dark Bantu black, through
to almost pure Arab. Their Kiswahili language is spoken throughout East
Africa. What is amazing about Kenya is that the same time the
Portuguese were settling Brazil in the 15th Century they were also
setling the Coast of Kenya.
The history of Zanzibar is told in the faces of her people. The
word Zanzibar came from the Arab Zanjibar which means "Land of the
Blacks". The people of Zanzibar are proud of their
culture and unique origin. They are the descendants of traders,
sailors, adventurers, Bantu people, Persians and Arabs.
This small island, just a 45 minute flight from Nairobi, was the center
of the East African slave trade. Most people are aware of the
the West African slave trade that brought millions of Africans to
Brazil from Nigeria, Benin, Ghana, Angola and other parts fo West
Africa. The East African Slave trade brought slaves from the
interior of the continent to be auctioned off in Zanzibar and sent
throughout Saudi Arabia, and the Middle East.
Over the years Zanzibar was visited by Portuguese, Chinese, Persian,
and Arab explorers and traders.. The Portuguese built Fort Jesus in
Mombassa Kenya. They were in the process of completing another
fort in the Stone Town secion of Zanzibar, but they were eventually
defeated by the Sultan of Oman. Remnants of the Portuguese
presence include Bull Fighting on Pemba, one of Zanzibar's
islands. The people of Zanzibar are wam and friendly. The white
sandy beaches are "paraiso", turquoise water cradled by a tropical
coral reef. The seafood is off the page, I have neve tasted more
delicous shrimp..,
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